Let’s Chat Topicals
Madison Lalonde
We love to draw on the incredible depth of expertise and experience our budtenders came to us with. If you’ve been by the shop, you’ve probably been helped through a weed purchase by Madison, but did you know she’s also a certified skincare buff?? We love having her insight on topicals and asked her to choose some favourites off our menu to share what she loves about them!
Madison is certified in Medical Aesthetics from the School of Natural Medical Aesthetics, after a brief career switch from social service work. Madi is trained with a comprehensive understanding of the theory behind medical aesthetic treatments such as skin and hair biology, the physics of lasers, IPL hair removal, IPL Photo-rejuvenation and IPL Acne treatments, radio frequency, fractional ablation, medical grade skin care, dermaplaning, microneedling, and chemical peels. She has hands-on experience working with clients in a variety of capacities to help reach their personalized goals.
“In addition to holding certification, I also have a passion for skincare and have done extensive research to cure my own skin concerns. I hope that some of my understanding can be passed along to you and that you might learn a little something today!”
Madi’s first pick is Madge and Mercer’s CBD Meadowfoam Emollient Serum!
Thanks for sharing your skincare smarts with us, Madi! Okay, tell us a bit about the brand behind your first pick!
Madi: Madge and Mercer is the first regulated cannabis brand that is research- and science-based and designed explicitly for women. Each formulation is proprietary, built from a recipe (rather than strain-dependent), and developed to focus on the wellness needs of women. The end result is a range of products created to exacting specifications, with precision predictability and batch-to-batch consistency. Founded by a female entrepreneur motivated by her own personal wellness journey as well as by the many women she met along the way, Madge and Mercer is designed by women for women.
They also ensure that all ingredients are vegan, gluten free and animal-cruelty free, as well as free of sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, Palm/RSPO, and CDEA. They consulted dermatologist Dr Sandy Skotnicki to assist in the formulation process and, currently, this is the only regulated CBD facial oil available in Ontario.
Amazing, love that. Now what’s the deal with this serum?
M: The CBD Meadowfoam Emollient is an antioxidant-rich, cannabis infused serum designed to help protect against UV damage and pollution, that is ideal for dehydrated, mature, and aging skin. Targeted for puffiness and redness, this serum is like a big drink of water for your face as it will seal in moisture and soften skin.
Emollients are a third group of agents found within moisturizers. Emollients include dimethicone, trisiloxane, ceramides, linoleic acid and caprylyl glycol, to name a few. These act by replacing skin lipids and filling in the gaps or crevices between skin cells. Many moisturizers actually contain a combination of humectants, occlusives, and emollients (Mahto, 2018). In Madge and Mercer’s serum, the emollient comes from the linoleic acid. In general terms, if your skin is acne prone you should go for products that are higher in humectants but low in occlusive agents. Conversely, if your skin is dry, a moisturizer with a higher content of emollients and occlusives will be better (Mahto, 2018).
I would suggest using caution with this serum if you have acne prone skin/ an active breakout/ broken skin/ or are experiencing any irritation already. Always speak with your dermatologist/ aesthetician or other skincare professional before adding a new active into your routine!
I would also suggest to mindfully introduce this into your routine and to be cautious of any other active ingredients you’re already putting on your face, as using too many actives can lead to over-exfoliation, which then leads to a plethora of skin issues, such as rashes, acne breakouts, redness and irritation. This one should not be used at the same time as a retinol. So if you are using retinol in your routine, use your vitamin c in the morning and your retinol at night, observing closely in case of irritation.
Gotcha. So what’s in it??
Cannabis – in skincare, cannabis is the IT girl when it comes to targeting inflammation, which is the undercurrent to all skin conditions. CBD is one of the strongest antioxidants out there, being 30-50% stronger than both vitamins C and E.
Linoleic acid - Which is essential for cellular regeneration aka cell turnover (your skin’s ability to produce new fresh skin and slough off dead skin cells). This is key for improving post-inflammatory pigmentation (the discoloration after a pimple), and ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation (sun spots).
Meadowfoam seed oil – aka Limnanthes Alba, is derived from meadowfoam seeds. Locks in moisture, is safe for most skin types, balances sebum production, absorbs easily into skin. Due to its hydrating aspects, this guy is great at plumping up your fine lines and wrinkles, which is often the cause behind these skin concerns. It’s also a thickening agent and adds a nice texture, so it is a stable ingredient to use in correlation with the others in this powerhouse serum.
Rosehip oil – aka Rosa Canina Fruit Oil. Ideal for maintaining youthful skin. Scientific studies indicate that rosehip may improve skin cell longevity. Yet, there are other benefits of rosehip oil. It doesn’t clog pores, it blends well with most essential oils, and is among the lighter carrier oils available, making it ideal for sensitive skin. Although Madge and Mercer’s Emollient is intended as a facial serum, the fatty acids, vitamin C and other antioxidants in rosehip oil may improve collagen production and minimize the appearance of stretch marks (Oil Experts, 2018).
Orange peel oil – aka Citrus aurantium dulcis oil. Comes from peels of the same very oranges that can be found at your local store. Madge and Mercer incorporated this guy here into their serum to mask the weed scent from the cannabis. It’s high in AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), which allow it to work as an exfoliator and also minimize the effects of photodamage (sun damage) on skin. AHAs also function as water-binding agents (humectants) in cosmetics and help preserve the moisture of your skin and prevent it from drying out (Skin Lab, 2020) .
Definitely keep in mind that the orange peel oil within the serum could easily cause irritation on the epidermis. Monitor usage closely and refrain from applying if you notice irritation occurring, (it will not go away with continued use).
Rosemary leaf extract – aka Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract is a fragrant, yet calming herb aimed to help reduce swelling and puffiness of the skin. It also helps to heal burns and soothe the skin. This herb's medicinal qualities make it a powerful cure for chronic skin conditions including dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis.
Limonene – which is a fragrant terpene often found in cannabis. If you have fragrance allergies – this guy here could very well interfere and cause a flare up. I highly suggest avoiding even if you get slightly irritated from fragrances.
Avena Sativa (Oat oil) is known to have anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and moisturizing characteristics. When used topically, Avena sativa (oat oil) can soothe, smooth, and nourish skin and hair (Stonehill, 2022).
Squalane - derived from squalene, which is found in shark liver oil. This guy increases the spread-ability and absorption of creams and lotions, and has been proven to prevent moisture loss, diminish the appearance of fine lines, and help in the prevention of wrinkles (Axiology, 2018).
How might these ingredients interact with the CBD and THC content?
Most of the key ingredients listed within this serum are aimed as overall hydrators for the skin. The THC within this serum aids in boosting the antioxidant benefits from the CBD, making it more effective than if the CBD were on its own. The topical application causes CBD to interact with the skin’s endocannabinoid system, especially with the CB2 receptors, providing relief from inflammation. (Ashton et al., 2021).
So how should I be using this serum?
This facial serum is intended to be used on your face, neck and chest down to the nipples. With that being said, this serum can be applied anywhere externally on the body if desired. Stretchmarks on the inner thighs, buttocks and breasts could benefit from the use of this serum. If experiencing sun spots, discolouration and fine lines on your hands, this serum would also benefit. Just make sure to be applying sunscreen over top of anywhere it is applied, if exposed to elements.
There are a few ingredients within this serum that on their own can be irritating for skin. (ex. orange peel oil). With that being said, formulation is everything, and I don’t agree with isolating and demonizing specific ingredients. These ingredients in combination with one another, work to hydrate, exfoliate and seal in moisture. Appealing to a variety of ailments for individuals across multiple age groups.
Resources:
Ashton, L., & *, N. (2021, December 2). CBD Oil for skin care: Benefits of using hemp facial & beauty products. CFAH. Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://cfah.org/cbd-oil-for-skin-care/
Avena sativa in skincare. Avena oat extract ws > actives, antioxidants & anti-aging > the herbarie at Stoney Hill Farm, inc.. (n.d.). Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://www.theherbarie.com/Avena-Oat-Extract-WS.html
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) peel oil. Skincare Lab. (2021, May 20). Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://www.skincarelab.org/citrus-aurantium-dulcis-orange-peel-oil/
Kim, S.-K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012, February 20). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research. Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780124160033000147
Lawrenson, A. (2021, October 12). This herb is in a surprising number of skincare products-here's why. Byrdie. Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://www.byrdie.com/rosemary-skincare-5072338
Mahto, A. (2018). The skincare bible: Your no-nonsense guide to great skin. Penguin.
MediLexicon International. (n.d.). Caprylic Triglyceride: Uses, benefits, and side effects. Medical News Today. Retrieved February 7, 2022, from https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/caprylic-capric-triglyceride
MM 004 émollient facial serum. Madge and Mercer. (n.d.). Retrieved February 7, 2022, from https://www.madgeandmercer.com/product-emollient-1
Bioactive dietary factors and plant extracts in dermatology. SpringerLink. (n.d.). Retrieved February 6, 2022, from http://www.constructivworks.com/v/download/Z4S3P2/bioactive-dietary-factors-and-plant-extracts-in-dermatology-nutrition-and-health_pdf
Rosehip oil benefits and uses for face, skin, hair & where to buy. Essential Oil Experts. (2018, July 15). Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://essentialoilexperts.com/rosehip-oil/
Shunatona, B. (2021, September 5). Why dermatologists love meadowfoam seed oil for all skin types. Byrdie. Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://www.byrdie.com/meadowfoam-seed-oil-5093883
The truth behind one of the cosmetic industry's deadliest ingredients: Squalane. Axiology. (2018, August 17). Retrieved February 6, 2022, from https://axiologybeauty.com/blogs/our-blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-one-of-the-cosmetic-industrys-deadliest-ingredients-squalene
Zhu, F. (2018, May 17). Coui skincare: Vitamin C serum side effects. Skin care powered by science & made with love - COUI Skincare. Retrieved February 7, 2022, from https://www.couiskincare.com/blogs/skincare/vitamin-c-serum-side-effects